Comer crudo, un placer ancestral.

El sabor, la textura y las propiedades nutricionales de los alimentos sin procesar son un gran atractivo que no está exento de riesgos.

Cuando nos planteamos comer alimentos crudos, pensamos de inmediato en las frutas y las hortalizas que tomamos en ensalada, pero no olvidemos que también se toman crudas algunas carnes, como el carpaccio, o pescados, como el popular sushi, mariscos, como las ostras, o huevos, que forman parte de batidos caseros mezclados con leche y frutas, entre muchos otros.

El alimento crudo es una pieza fundamental de algunas costumbres alimentarias ancestrales y forma parte de los tres polos que el antropólogo francés Claude Lévi-Strauss describió como "el crudo, el cocido y el podrido".

Además de los placeres organolépticos que la comida cruda puede reportar, se han de tener en cuenta algunas ventajas y desventajas nutricionales, y en relación con la salud que tiene esta forma de alimentarse, sea de forma esporádica o definitiva (crudivorismo).

Crudo y cultura alimentaria

Según Lévi-Strauss, lo crudo está relacionado con el polo indemne de la naturaleza, con lo "no procesado", mientras que lo cocido es la transformación cultural de lo crudo, que tiene que ver con la cultura y con la materia prima procesada. La cocina es el lenguaje por el que se expresa una comunidad y conviene no olvidar que los conceptos de "crudo", "cocido" y "podrido" son diferentes para las distintas sociedades. Lo cierto es que no existe un estado puro de lo crudo ya que son pocos los productos que se comen sin procesar, es decir, sin lavar, pelar, cortar, fermentar o aliñar.

En occidente, por ejemplo, se entiende técnicamente como cocinado el aumento de la temperatura del alimento hasta un punto y durante un tiempo suficiente para ocasionarle un cambio irreversible.

Entre lo crudo y lo cocido

Encontrar el equilibrio en una alimentación completa, que integre alimentos crudos y platos cocinados, parece ser la clave para lograr una buena nutrición. La cantidad sustancial de vitaminas, minerales, fitoquímicos y enzimas que aportan a la dieta las frutas y hortalizas crudas es muy importante, ya que no hay ningún otro alimento que las pueda igualar. Por otro lado, no se puede olvidar que la cocción tiene sus méritos culturales, nutricionales e higiénicos.

Por tanto, es muy interesante conocer qué es lo que se puede comer crudo y, en cambio, qué es lo que se debe tomar cocido para alimentarse de manera correcta sin correr ningún riesgo para la salud.

Los alimentos crudos ostentan virtudes nutricionales, de sabor y de original placer gastronómico

No hay por el momento evidencia científica que demuestre que es más sano tomar siempre las hortalizas y verduras crudas y no cocidas. No obstante, con los conocimientos sobre química culinaria de hoy en día, se puede afirmar que sólo el almacenamiento, el tratamiento y la preparación de los productos agrícolas recolectados ya provoca pérdidas de nutrientes. De hecho, hay una serie de factores responsables de estas pérdidas: temperatura, luz, oxígeno, dióxido de carbono, grado de acidez, humedad y presencia de microorganismos.

Si a estos factores añadimos la acción del calor, que desactiva las enzimas y los microorganismos beneficiosos -como los de los productos fermentados- y, además, destruye parte de las vitaminas hidrosolubles y la mayor parte de los antioxidantes, el resultado es una merma nutritiva relevante. Por este motivo, de las cinco raciones diarias de frutas y verduras que recomienda la Organización Mundial de la Salud, OMS, se tendrían que tomar al menos la mitad en estado crudo.

Crudos: ventajas y desventajas

La categoría de alimentos crudos se extiende de las frutas y hortalizas a los lácteos, las carnes, los pescados y hasta los aceites. El steak tartare, el carpaccio, el sushi o el natto son platos y alimentos sin cocinar; sólo con algún sencillo procesado incluido en su preparación. La ventaja de disfrutar de un abanico de sabores naturales, genuinos y que transmiten una sensación probablemente muy parecida a la que experimentaron sus primeros consumidores es un atractivo tanto para el paladar como para la salud. Las recetas crudas mantienen en gran medida las composiciones nutritivas de los alimentos y también de los condimentos que les acompañan, como, por ejemplo, el aceite de oliva virgen.

Los aceites sometidos al calor sufren procesos de oxidación que devalúan su calidad organoléptica y nutricional, por eso es conveniente utilizar con frecuencia aceites vírgenes en crudo, sobre todo, de oliva, rico en ácidos grasos monoinsaturados beneficiosos para el corazón y el sistema vascular.

El horno, la olla, la sartén y hasta el microondas ofrecen una ventaja destacable y, en contrapartida a la pérdida de vitaminas que provocan, hacen más asimilables las proteínas y los azúcares de los cocinados. La aplicación de calor da como resultado un producto más comestible por que se modifica su aroma, su aspecto, su estructura (facilitando su masticación y digestión) y su seguridad higiénica. En este último punto, el cocinado de los alimentos por medio del calor solventa problemas microbiológicos y, además, desactiva los antinutrientes que impiden la asimilación de ciertas sustancias nutritivas.

Microorganismos como los que provocan la toxoplasmosis ("Toxoplasma gondii") o la listeria presentes, sobre todo, en carnes poco o mal cocinadas, leche cruda, huevos o vegetales contaminados por aguas fecales pueden provocar diarreas, dolor de estómago y, en mujeres embarazadas, graves consecuencias para el feto. Parásitos como el anisakis, muy común en pescados que no se han congelado, pueden ser causantes de peritonitis muy graves. De hecho, la incidencia de enfermedades provocadas por parásitos como la triquinosis, la toxoplasmosis o las tenias no es pequeña. No se ha de olvidar el peligro que supone la salmonela, que si se halla en huevos que no alcanzan los 65º C durante su cocción puede ser fatal según la edad del comensal.

Por tanto, motivos de higiene y el hecho de que la cocción hace más comestibles algunos alimentos inclinan, con un peso evidente, la balanza hacia el cocinado. No obstante, las virtudes nutricionales, de sabor y de original placer gastronómico que ostentan los crudos comportan un "contrapeso" relevante que da el resultado elegido por la mayoría de los comensales: una alimentación variada que incluya en proporciones similares platos que permitan disfrutar de distintas sensaciones, texturas y nutrientes y que, a su vez, ofrezcan seguridad.

TENDENCIAS CRUDÍFERAS

El crudivorismo (comer sólo crudos) es un movimiento difundido por todo el mundo que promueve la dieta cruda. Hay distintos tipos: el crudivorismo genérico, que se basa en una alimentación básicamente vegetariana u ovolactovegetariana con un 75% de productos crudos; el movimiento de "Alimentos vivos" de Anne Wigmore, que incluye brotes y alimentos crudos fermentados; el método de "higiene natural" que promueve el uso ocasional de leche fresca, queso o huevos y alguna verdura cocida; y la "anopsología" o "alimentación instintiva", que practica la dieta basada en fruta fresca, pescado y carne crudos y algunos vegetales, y se conoce como la paleo dieta o la dieta de los antepasados.

 

 

 

 

 

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